Appledore

In the North of Devon there is a wild and hidden place. Sat alongside The River Torridge, it lurks between hills and moors. Appledore is a little piece of Wild Cornwall somehow separated from the Motherland and abandoned in a foreign clime. Having said that, the weather is Cornish too. Wet and wild or balmy and bright, locals and climate conspire to lull holiday makers (or Grockles, as they are correctly know this side of the border) into a false sense of security around the weight of their wallet. A marvelous place!

Now - don't you be getting confused when trying to find Appledore on the map. It's magical power extends beyond the holiday atmosphere and devil may care attitude, to hiding, Brigadoonlike, in a seemingly modern county. There are two Appledores in Devon, as I found out once when I was in charge of navigating! The other Appledore is landlocked. So, if you arrive and have nowhere to moor your boat, you've got the wrong one! Get back in the car and head towards Barnstaple, Westward Ho! (yep, it really does have punctuation!) and Bideford. Appledore is off to the right and as far as you can go, after the roundabout.

The pubs in the village (or 'town' as the local people prefer) are all 'local pubs'. But the people are friendly enough. They make their living from hosting happy holidays, why wouldn't they be friendly? However, they all have slightly different atmospheres. One is an ancient Tudor building, all nooks and crannies. Another is a low square building with a big open bar like a hotel reception. There is a pub which sits beside the river like a small seaside restaurant. And just down the road from that is a pub which appears to have grown from the land and simply 'belongs', hanging precariously over the water.

The locals fall into two basic camps - those whose family can be found in the churchyard, and incomers. The incomers, are of three camps - the artistic faction, the holiday homers and the business people. There is much room for disagreement and dislike between all these factions and one must be careful not to comment in public on something overheard or overseen. You are likely to be talking about the cousin of the next door neighbour of the grandma of the person sat at the bar behind you. Reserve judgement until you know the family lines and friendship ties of those around you! Appledorians look after their own and will not be backward in letting you know if you have offended a family member. In Appledore friends are family too.

It is worth making the effort to get to know the incumbents though, because any ticks or opinions which may unjustly raise alarm and eyebrows in the rest of the country are likely to get a simple sage nod in Appledore. People will not judge you so much on your thoughts and stances as on the way you behave, how amusing or interesting you are and how you treat people. There is a feeling of having stepped back half a century, much like crossing the Tamar into Cornwall. People don't use the same measures of each other here. People matter. Once accepted into the social life of this town, you can cease to be 'that strange woman who believes x, y and z. Stay away from her dear' and simply be 'Hers a bit maze, but ent no trouble. Whiles an hour away.'

I am introducing you to this wonderful, mistimed town for several reasons. Mostly, I should like everyone to know about Appledore and its old fashioned charms. The best time to visit is during the summer Arts Festival. A weekend of music, street fairs and art. Usually held in June, it is a fine way to lose a weekend in beer, laughter and interesting things to look at. Secondly, I should like you to understand the unusualness of Appledore because I am soon going to introduce you to some of the locals. Billy, the builder; Morgan, the feminist; and Jazz, the energetic youngster are just three of the people you shall meet.

I hope I have made it clear by now, but if not you should be aware. Appledore is a real place. A real place in real time. It is, however, one of those places where nothing is quite what it seems and where looking at life sideways is a little easier and readily accepted.

I am looking forward to meeting you there. And when you arrive? Mine's a Bud with the top off!